Best Electric Guitar Under 1000 With Unbeatable Value

Pickup Configuration

Some of the classic electric guitars of all time have their signature tone because of the pickups they use. In most cases, it comes down to two main types: humbuckers (double coil) and single coils.

Single coils have that bright, snappy top end that cuts through a mix, while humbuckers round things out with more low-end and a fuller voice. Beyond the type itself, pickup position and how they’re wired together play a huge role in your sound. Plenty of guitars under $1000 use these tried-and-true designs, so you’re not missing out on the essentials.

In this price range, you’ll also find FilterTrons, most famously used in Gretsch guitars. They sit tonally somewhere between a single coil and a humbucker, with their own unique chime and punch. Shape-wise they look a lot like humbuckers but with slightly different dimensions. If you want to dig into what makes them tick, James M Brill’s article for Reverb is a great FilterTron deep dive.

Another favorite is the P-90, Gibson’s fat single coil that’s been around since the late 1940s. It’s got a gritty growl when you dig in, yet cleans up beautifully when you play lighter. P-90s often share the same footprint as humbuckers, so you’ll spot them on all sorts of guitars these days.

There are other pickup variations out there, but these are the most common in this price bracket. If you’re stuck choosing, look at what your favorite guitarists are using as it’s usually a safe guide.

Here are some pickup layouts you’ll run into in the sub-$1000 range:

• SSS – Three single coils, like a traditional Stratocaster.
• SS – Two single coils, like a Telecaster.
• HH – Two humbuckers, found on Les Pauls, SGs, Flying Vs, and many Super Strats, perfect if you like thick rock or metal tones.
• FF – Two FilterTrons, most common on Gretsch but also on a few Fender models. More on these in James M Brill’s article.
• HSS – Two single coils and a humbucker at the bridge. A versatile Strat or Super Strat setup with a switch and controls to handle both.
• HSH – Two humbuckers with a single coil in the middle. Great for players who want heavier tones but still like some single-coil sparkle.
• PP – Two P-90s, often on certain SG and Les Paul models.
• HP – A humbucker in the bridge and a P-90 in the neck. Less common, but G&L and others have affordable versions.
• FP – A FilterTron in the bridge and a P-90 in the neck. Occasionally seen in Gretsch’s mid-tier range and some custom builds.

Modern wiring has also made it possible for humbuckers to mimic single coil sounds through coil tapping, giving you far more tonal range without swapping guitars. Some models even use No Load tone circuits that completely bypass the tone pot when it’s on 10, letting your pickups breathe at full output.

Playability

Playability often gets overlooked by new buyers, but as someone who’s set up countless guitars, I can tell you it’s a dealbreaker. Even a great-sounding guitar will collect dust if it’s uncomfortable to play. Four key specs shape how a neck feels in your hands.

Scale Length – Guitar scale length is the distance from the nut to the bridge saddles. Longer scales like the 25.5″ Telecaster feel tighter and snappier, while shorter ones like the 24.75″ Les Paul have a slinkier, looser feel.

Nut Width – This affects the spacing between strings at the nut. Smaller hands might prefer around 1.65″, while players who like more finger room might go wider.

Fingerboard Radius – This is how flat or curved the fretboard is. Flatter boards between 12″ and 16″ make bending and shredding easier, while rounder boards between 7.25″ and 9.5″ are more comfortable for chords. Some guitars have a compound radius that gradually flattens as you move up the neck. Guitar fret wires also change the feel, with taller frets making bending smoother and lower frets feeling more precise.

Neck Profile – The back shape of the neck (C, U, V, etc.) combined with radius and finish creates the overall feel. Maple necks tend to sound a bit brighter than mahogany ones, but comfort should be your first priority here.

Bridge

In this price range, bridge quality gets a noticeable upgrade. You’ll see everything from sturdy tune-o-matics to licensed Floyd Rose systems for divebombs and squeals. Floating tremolos give you more expression but come with extra setup work and can make string changes slower. Locking nuts help with tuning stability, but if you rarely use a whammy bar, a fixed bridge will save you a lot of hassle.

Body Shape and Finish

Looks matter, not just for the audience but for your own inspiration. A guitar that feels and looks right will make you want to play more. Most players start by chasing the shapes their heroes use, but I always encourage trying others too. The different guitar types out there are vast, and each brings its own vibe.

The Stratocaster, Telecaster, Les Paul, and SG have been dominating for decades, but there are plenty of fresh designs inspired by them. Whether you go for a classic or something wilder, make sure it feels good against your body when standing and sitting.

Do Cheap Electric Guitars Sound Bad?

Not necessarily. A well-set-up affordable guitar can sound great, especially if you upgrade pickups from brands like EMG or Seymour Duncan. In the hands of a good player, even a cheap guitar can turn heads.

That said, once you move into the sub-$1000 range, you’ll notice the difference in both tone and feel. This is where you get the best bang for your buck, and the guitars in this guide are the ones I’d personally trust to get the job done on stage or in the studio.