Best Electric Ukulele – Acoustic Electric & Electric

There are many factors that affect the overall quality and performance of acoustic-electric ukuleles, but for this guide, we narrow it down to three essentials: size, tonewood, and pickup/preamp type.

Size

For this edition, we feature three of the most popular ukulele body types: soprano, concert, and tenor. The general rule is that the smaller the size is, the brighter or more trebly it sounds. And for many this trebly is what makes a great ukulele. This means that the soprano is the brightest sounding of the group, while the tenor, being the biggest, has more low-end than the other two.

Finally, concert-size ukes are expected to have a tone sitting in the middle. For further details on all five of the most commonly found sizes, you can visit our dedicated guide about sizes titled: The Different Ukulele Sizes Explained. That way, if you choose to purchase a ukulele that’s not on this list, you’ll know the pros and cons of each body type.

Scale Length

Scale length is the distance between the nut and the bridge – it basically describes the length of the strings. It impacts both the tone of the strings and the force required to play them. The longer the scale length, the more the top resonates (which increases volume), though a longer scale length can somewhat reduce warmth. Long scale length also means more space for bigger fingers, while short scale is ideal for younger players with small hands.

The scale lengths for the main body styles are as follows:

• Soprano body and Pineapple Uke: 13-14 in.
• Concert Uke: 15-16 in.
• Tenor Uke: 17-18 in.
• Baritone Uke: 19-20 in.

The main body types listed above range from small Soprano ukuleles to bigger Baritone ukes. The baritone ukulele generally has bigger bodies and longer scale lengths. This means they are slightly louder acoustically and would fit better among those with bigger hands.

The type of strings used can also impact tension and playability. Steel strings have more tension and sustain, they also have a brighter sound. Nylon strings are easier on the hands and have a warmer tone.

Tonewood

One of the most important things to consider when looking at a ukulele is the wood it’s made from. Like other acoustic musical instruments, the acoustic tone of a ukulele is heavily influenced by the woods used in its construction. Most affordable ukuleles are made from mahogany, but should you choose to upgrade at some point in the future, you should be aware of the pros and cons of different tonewoods.

The tonewoods below are commonly used in ukuleles, but it should be noted that there’s a variety of woods used by manufacturers and luthiers. So, if a uke is made from a wood you don’t recognize, look up the properties of the tonewood in question before you make your purchase. Note that the effect of wood on tone is not an exact science, but the information provided below will help shed light on how each wood is generally perceived to sound.

Koa

Ukuleles have traditionally been made from koa. Because of this, if you’re looking for the quintessential ukulele tone you’ll most likely be pleased with an instrument made from koa.

The sound is considered to be very direct, with less overtones than other woods. It emphasizes mid-range frequencies, which is perfect for tenor body and baritone body ukuleles. Koa is also regarded as one of the most aesthetically pleasing tonewoods, and is the reason why the best ukulele deals often feature koa wood. Still, wood choice is, of course, a matter of personal preference.

Mahogany

Mahogany is a staple musical instrument tone wood. It has a similar response to koa, though it’s regarded to have more warmth. While mahogany may not be as attractive as koa, some of the best ukuleles in the world are made from mahogany. Notable examples of high-end ukuleles made from mahogany would be those manufactured by Martin. The Epiphone Les Paul ukulele is another example.

Cedar and Redwood

Cedar and redwood are both warmer than mahogany, though some consider this tone wood to be less focused. This means that they’re great for strumming, but they may not be the best choice for those of you looking to play more complicated music.

Another thing to be aware of is that ukuleles made from cedar or redwood won’t cut through a mix as well as those made from a tonewood with a more focused tone, so if you plan on playing in an ensemble you may want to look at acoustic electric ukes made from mahogany, koa, or rosewood, unless you are using an amplifier.

Rosewood/Ovangkol

Rosewood and ovangkol are closely related woods that offer a rich and clear tone. The woods are considered to produce very glassy (not piercing) highs and full-bodied yet articulate lows.

Rosewood and ovangkol have the potential to sound brittle when used in smaller instruments, depending on the construction. So be sure to play a rosewood/ovangkol ukulele before you buy it (or at least look up sound samples) to decide whether you’re going to like the focused tone of an instrument made from one of these woods.

Laminate vs. Solid Wood

A solid wood instrument is exactly what it sounds like: an instrument made from a solid piece of wood. Laminated wood instruments are made from thin sheets of wood that are glued and pressed together. Solid wood instruments resonate more than their laminate counterparts, which results in a louder and more harmonically rich instrument. Solid wood instruments also reflect the properties of the wood used to a greater degree than laminated instruments.

While laminate instruments may not sound as rich as those made from solid wood, they are more affordable. This makes laminate wood a staple across the guitar world. Laminate instruments are also more durable, which makes them a good fit for beginning musicians who may not yet know how to properly care for an instrument.

Type of Pickups

The two main types of acoustic pickups you’re going to encounter are: piezos and soundboard transducers. Piezo pickups are cheap to produce, though they do have a tendency to produce a quaky-honking tone unless they’re carefully EQ’d. Soundboard transducers create a more natural sounding tone, but they tend to be more expensive.

Both transducers and piezo pickups have their strengths. Piezo pickups have the capability to sound great while still being affordable, and while transducer pickups may offer a more organic tone, the difference between a good transducer and a good piezo (that’s properly EQ’d, of course) is negligible during a live performance.

Active vs. Passive Pickups

Two terms that you’re going to see while looking for an acoustic electric ukulele are: active pickup and passive pickup. Put in layman’s terms, passive pickups produce a weak electric signal, while an active pickup produces a stronger one.

A passive pickup needs an external boost in order to produce a signal that’s strong enough for live applications, while an active pickup already has a power supply (a battery). Passive pickups can be plugged directly into a PA Mixing Console or amplifier, but the results will depend on the features of the amp or P.A. in question. Passive pickups produce an anemic and flat tone when the signal isn’t boosted. Some amps do take passive pickups into account, though, because many don’t, you’re more limited. If you use an instrument with passive pickups – you will need an acoustic preamp unless it already sounds good through your PA or acoustic amp.