If you’re chasing that room-filling thump or looking to tighten up your low end, finding the best PA subwoofer can seriously transform your sound. A good subwoofer doesn’t just add bass, it changes the whole feel of the mix.
Under $500 | Under $500 Product Image | Product Title | *GEARANK | **Sources | Check Prices |
 | 91 | 1100+ |
Under $1000 | Under $1000 Product Image | Product Title | *GEARANK | **Sources | Check Prices |
 | 96 | 275+ |
Over $1000 | Over $1000 Product Image | Product Title | *GEARANK | **Sources | Check Prices |
 | 97 | 375+ | |||
 | 96 | 450+ | |||
| 96 | 200+ |
*Gearank = Rating score out of 100.
**Sources = Number of gear owner and user opinions analyzed for these product Gearank Ratings.
Research Process: How Gearank Works
In my experience, a good sub doesn’t just add bass, it changes the whole feel of the mix. I once installed a powered sub at a local venue that always sounded a bit flat. A week later, one of the staff told me, “It finally sounds like real music.” That’s the kind of upgrade the right subwoofer delivers, it’s not just about volume, it’s about clarity, punch, and depth.
Whether I’m setting up for a gig, running sound for a small event, or helping dial in a worship system, I’ve learned that powered subwoofers are key to getting that clean, full-range sound today’s audiences expect. The best powered subwoofer won’t just shake the floor, it’ll free up your main speakers to handle the mids and highs more effectively, giving you a tighter, more balanced mix. You also reduce stress on your tops, which means better performance and reliability in the long run.
What I Look for in the Best PA Subwoofers
When I test or recommend a powered subwoofer, I go beyond just brand names or wattage ratings. Here’s the actual set of criteria I use, based on what consistently works in real-world settings.
- Frequency Response
This one’s big. The subwoofer’s frequency range is measured in Hz, and the lower it can go, the deeper the bass. I always look for a sub that hits those low frequencies cleanly, without getting muddy or sacrificing clarity. - Crossover
The crossover is what splits the signal into low and high frequencies so you’re not wasting power trying to push full-range content through the sub. Some models let you adjust the crossover point, which is super useful when you’re trying to get your sub and mains to gel. - Max SPL (Sound Pressure Level)
SPL is how loud a sub can get before distorting, measured in decibels (dB). It’s a helpful benchmark, but remember, it also depends on the room. A 130 dB sub sounds different in a club vs. a church hall. - Power Rating
People love to fixate on watts, and yeah, power does matter. But I’ve seen high-watt subs that still underdeliver because of poor cabinet design or low sensitivity. I always consider the full picture: wattage, enclosure, and how efficiently it pushes air. - Drivers
The driver is the actual speaker cone that makes all the magic happen. Bigger drivers (like 18”) dig deeper, while smaller ones (12” or 15”) give you tighter, punchier bass. If a sub has multiple drivers, even better, it can really help with wider coverage and consistent low end across the room. - Input and Output Connectors
I like subs that give me options: XLR, 1/4″, and sometimes RCA. More connectivity means more flexibility, whether I’m running a mono feed, daisy-chaining, or building out a stereo rig. - Polarity / Phase Control
This feature is underrated. A polarity or variable phase switch lets you align your sub’s output with your mains, which can clear up all kinds of low-end phase issues. Sometimes just flipping that switch makes a muddy mix suddenly snap into focus. - Enclosure Material
Wood tends to sound warmer and more solid, but it’s heavier and not always ideal for portable setups. Plastic is lightweight and rugged, especially for mobile gigs, though it can sound a little boxy. Some metal options exist too, durable, but also heavy and prone to rust if you’re not careful. - Dimensions and Weight
Let’s be honest: I’ve dragged more subs across parking lots than I can count. Size and weight really matter, especially if you’re gigging solo. Features like wheels, handles, or pole mounts can save your back and your setup time.
I also factor in the stuff you can’t always measure on paper, reliability, safety, and affordability. I want gear that works consistently, doesn’t overheat, and doesn’t wreck your budget. The best PA subwoofer isn’t just the loudest, it’s the one that gets the job done gig after gig, cleanly and confidently.
Of course, not all powered subwoofers are created equal. That’s why I’ve put together this guide to the best PA subwoofers available right now, organized by price: under $500, under $1000, and over $1000. Whether you’re building your first rig or pairing with the best PA speakers, there’s a solid option here to fit your setup.
Best PA Subwoofer under $500
Behringer Eurolive B1200D-PRO
The Behringer Eurolive B1200D-PRO is the best budget powered PA subwoofer for small to medium venues. Perfect if you are into music genres that require full bass but doesn’t need excessive thump.
At publication time, this was the Highest Rated Powered Subwoofer for PA system Under $500.
Pros:
- Good power to price value
- Excellent for small jazz/acoustic venues
- Portable subwoofer
- Decent filtering options
- Too small for larger venues
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Budget speakers usually have corners cut on materials, build quality, and speaker quality. The Behringer Eurolive B1200D-PRO doesn’t suffer much from this, despite its affordability.
It’s spec’ed with a Class-D amplifier with a long-excursion 12″ woofer that puts out a respectable 500W of power with a max SPL of 122dB. This efficiency also means longer running times with little risk of overheating. The internal limiter also protects the woofer from going beyond operating limits and protects ears from sudden jumps in volume.
For pairing with other speakers, the B1200D-PRO also includes an active stereo crossover for outputting a high pass filtered signals to them. A high cut control lets you fine tune the PA sub with nearly any setup.
The B1200D-PRO is notably loud for its size. At 12″, it’s not the largest subwoofer but it does a good job of filling in the energy in small to medium venues. Having a smaller PA sub also means tighter sound in smaller environments where a large PA sub might introduce unwanted resonance. Jazz and acoustic bars benefit the most from their compact size and tight sound.
This is also where its limitations are evident. While it’s able to do DJ Music and EDM (Electronic Dance Music), larger clubs will find the push and bass tones inadequate. But the B1200D-PRO does an excellent job in its price point for genres like jazz, acoustic, indie, and other bass-light genres.
- Frequency Response: 30Hz-132Hz (-10dB)
- Crossover: 140Hz
- Max SPL: 130dB
- Power Rating: 600W RMS
- Drivers: 1 x 12″
- Input Connectors: 2 x XLR
- Output Connectors: 4 x XLR
- Polarity: Not Specified
- Enclosure Material: 15mm Plywood
- Dimensions: 26.5″ x 22.6″ x 22.8″
- Weight: 82 lbs.
Best PA Subwoofer under $1000
Electro-Voice ELX200-12SP
The ELX200-12SP’s modern design, manageable dimensions, and built-in M20 Pole Mount Plate make it versatile. This is one of the best powered subwoofer options for smaller to medium-sized events.
At publication time, this was the Best PA Powered Subwoofer for under $1000.
Pros:
- Impressive size-to-power ratio
- User-friendly DSP
- Intuitive app controls
- Not ideal for larger gigs
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The Electro-Voice ELX200-12SP, a compact 12-inch subwoofer, offers an impressive blend of portability and performance.
With precise and punchy bass, it excels in genres like electronic music and suits smaller to medium-sized venues. Its robust build, including a 15mm plywood cabinet and durable EVCoat finish, ensures reliability.
Equipped with a powerful Class D amp (1200W) and QuickSmartDSP, this subwoofer delivers a max SPL of 129dB and offers customizable frequency settings. Bluetooth control enhances convenience for adjustments and sound assessment.
- Frequency Response: 49Hz-135Hz (-3dB)
- Crossover: Adjustable (80Hz, 100Hz, 120Hz, 150Hz)
- Max SPL: 129 dB
- Power Rating: 1200 Watts Peak
- Drivers: 1 x 12″ EVS-12L woofer
- Input Connectors: 2 x XLR-1/4″ Combo
- Output Connectors: 2 x XLR
- Polarity: Not Specified
- Enclosure Material: 15mm Plywood with EVCoat
- Dimensions: 15.63″ x 17.52″ x 17.99″
- Weight: 42.11 lbs
Best PA Subwoofers – Over $1000
QSC KS118
If you’ve had a good experience with QSC loudspeakers and have the budget, then this is your best pick. If not, then the KS118 will easily turn you into a fan of the brand.
At publication time, this was the Best PA Powered Subwoofer for over $1000.
Pros:
- Pairs well with various speakers
- Deep mode is excellent for EDM
- DSP with scenes great for variety across different events
- Slightly on the heavy side at 104lbs
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This subwoofer is meant for loud use in medium to big venues, housing an 18″ driver that is powered by a 3,600W amplifier.
Built-in DSP expands the functionality of the KS118, allowing for adjustable crossover and save-able scenes that can be used to conveniently tweak the subwoofer to match the venue and event requirements.
Another interesting feature is the selectable Deep mode, that further enhances low-end, ideal for electronic musicians, DJ Setup, and more. This means that you can switch to a more natural sounding subwoofer, or a deep sounding one, all in one package.
All these are housed inside a 15mm birch wood cabinet with built-in rolling casters.
With these specs, the sound quality is close to what you can get for premium or custom. With the switchable modes, the versatility of the KS118 is unmatched at this price point. This makes it an excellent choice for rentals where events and venues vary.
It helps a lot that QSC is one of the more popular brands in sound reinforcement, so you’d likely get it to match the best PA speakers from QSC. The KS118 also synergizes well with other brands thanks to the DSP, which allows adjustments of various settings to calibrate them to nearly any setup.
The KS118 suffers from the same problem as most subwoofers in its class, which is the weight. While it’s a given that subs are heavy, at 104lbs, the KS118 is on the heftier end of the spectrum and would benefit from casters. If you want something lighter, checkout its lighter sibling, the QSC KS112.
- Frequency Response: 41Hz-98Hz (-6 dB)
- Crossover: Variable
- Max SPL: 136 dB SPL @ 1m
- Power Rating: 3600W Peak Class D
- Drivers: 18″
- Input Connectors: 2 x XLR-1/4″ combo
- Output Connectors: 2 x XLR
- Polarity: Not Specified
- Enclosure Material: 15 mm Birch Plywood
- Dimensions: 25.2″ x 20.5″ x 30.9″
- Weight: 104 lbs
Electro-Voice EKX-18SP
The EKX-18SP is a serious PA sub that will fit most musical and event applications. It excels in band-centric applications where transient response is usually favored over raw power.
Pros:
- Light for the size
- Fast transient response great for rock and metal
- DSP enables quick matching with other speakers
- Cardioid Control Technology helps directionality
- Lack of casters slightly hinders transportability
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The Electro-Voice EKX-18SP gets good ratings thanks to its big 18-inch woofer and 1300W amplifier, and its most interesting feature is its Cardioid Control Technology, which focuses sound projection onto the audience while reducing stage noise.
It also comes with built-in DSP (Digital Signal Processing) that allows for quick setup and matching, be it with your other speakers or the venue it is employed in.
And it is relatively light considering it comes with an 18″ LF Driver.
Not all 18″ subs are made the same. It has a large cone with a big excursion range. This means that to get a balanced sound, an enclosure needs to be engineered around it that has the right amount of airflow. Rock and Metal genres are surprisingly more demanding of good subwoofers, in my experience, as they have faster transients and require more careful balancing with the bass guitar. The EKX-18SP has a fast transient response for the woofer size, which makes it great for the aforementioned genres’ rapid double pedal styles.
One thing to note is that it doesn’t come with casters, so that might be a dealbreaker if you’re looking for something a bit more easily transportable.
- Frequency Response: 35Hz to 180Hz (-10dB)
- Crossover: Adjustable (80Hz, 100Hz, 120Hz, 150Hz)
- Max SPL: 134 dB
- Power Rating: 1300 Watts Peak
- Drivers: 1 x 18″ EVS-18C subwoofer
- Input Connectors: 2 x XLR-1/4″ Combo
- Output Connectors: 2 x XLR
- Polarity: Not Specified
- Enclosure Material: 15mm Wood
- Dimensions: 20.4″ x 23.8″ x 24″
- Weight: 72.3 lbs
Turbosound iQ18B
The Turbosound iQ18B is a reliable, powerful subwoofer that adds low-end punch to any sound system. It combines robust construction, advanced features, and impressive performance, making it a go-to choice for professionals seeking high-quality bass reinforcement.
Pros:
- Punchy, warm bass
- Ultranet connection offers more connectivity options
- Able to handle higher SPL without overheating
- Enclosure may not fit in tight spaces
- Caster wheels may vibrate and cause noise
- Some reported issues with pole mount durability
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The Turbosound iQ18B is an 18-inch subwoofer that delivers powerful, deep bass. It boasts a peak power of 3,000 watts and utilizes Klark Teknik digital signal processing for precise sound shaping.
This subwoofer stands out because of its digital signal processing, which allows for speaker modeling and emulates the sound of other popular speakers. This expands both the tonal palette and the viability of the speaker for use with different venues and musical styles.
The iQ18B delivers punchy, warm bass with an Ultranet connection that offers more connectivity options. It is also able to handle higher SPL without overheating.
The lightweight Class D amplifier technology makes it highly portable. The subwoofer’s back-mounted casters add to its convenience, making it a top choice for gigging musicians and sound engineers.
However, it comes with a premium price tag and may not fit in tight spaces due to its large enclosure. Some users have reported issues with pole mount durability, and caster wheels may vibrate and cause noise.
- Frequency Response: 36Hz-100Hz (-10dB)
- Crossover: Active (High Pass L-R 24 dB/oct)
- Max SPL: 127dB (Continuous), 133dB (Peak)
- Power Rating: 3000 Watts Peak
- Drivers: 1 x 18″
- Input Connectors: 2 x XLR Combo
- Output Connectors: 2 x XLR
- Polarity: Not Specified
- Enclosure Material: Birch Plywood
- Dimensions: 27.2 x 21.0 x 22.0″
- Weight: 87.5 lbs ( 39.8 kg)
Things to Consider When Buying a PA Subwoofer
How I Usually Integrate Subs Into PA Systems
There’s more than one way to set up a subwoofer in a PA system, but the goal stays the same: let the sub handle the lows, and let your main PA speakers focus on the mids and highs. One simple method I often use is sending just the kick and bass to a sub-mix via an Aux output on the mixer, then routing that to a powered subwoofer. It keeps the mix tight and avoids cluttering the low end.
If your sub has a built-in high-pass filter, you can run it in parallel with your main speakers, no extra gear required. For more involved setups, I’ll use an external crossover to split the signal more precisely between subs and tops. If you’re just starting out, or want to dig deeper, check out this solid explainer: Using a Powered Subwoofer to Augment Your Existing PA.
Match Your Subwoofer to Your Music
Driver size matters more than people think, especially when it comes to matching the sub to your style. If you’re playing acoustic sets or folk music, a 12″ sub will usually give you all the low-end warmth you need. But if you’re working with 808 beats or anything that leans bass-heavy, like hip-hop or EDM, you’ll want something with more muscle. I’ve found that 18″ subs like the Mackie Thump18S or Electro-Voice EKX-18SP really move the air and make those deep bass drops hit hard.
Just make sure you’re not pushing your speakers too far. Overdriving your system for long periods can cause issues like crackling from your speakers, and once that starts, it’s tough to un-hear.
Subwoofers as Stage Monitors
Drummers and bassists especially know how useful it can be to have a powered sub right on stage. I’ve worked with a few who add one just to feel that punch behind them. Combine that with a traditional stage monitor, and you get a more complete monitoring setup that keeps everyone locked in. If you’re using multiple subs, make sure to pick one with phase or polarity control, it really helps tighten things up and avoid cancellations on stage.
Portability Trade-Offs
Let’s be honest, subs aren’t exactly fun to haul around. They take up space, they’re heavy, and they’re one more thing to load in and out. But if you’re serious about your live sound, they’re often worth it. I always tell folks to weigh their need for deep bass against their willingness to schlep an extra box or two.
If you’re playing small gigs solo or don’t have help loading gear, maybe a compact powered sub, or even no sub, is the right call. On the other hand, if you do go with a bigger rig, look for practical features like side handles and rolling casters. And while passive PA subwoofers might shave off a few pounds, remember that you’ll need a separate power amp to drive them, which adds to your total gear load.
Best PA Subwoofer Selection Methodology
The first edition was published in 2016. The current edition was published on 2025.
We’ve been publishing this guide since 2016, and for the latest edition, we focused on the most widely available powered PA subwoofers in the U.S. We started with a list of 34 popular models, all featured in our Music Gear Database, and gathered feedback from over 7,900 sources, including real-world user reviews, expert takes, and forum insights.
From there, we ran all the data through the Gearank Algorithm to score each unit out of 100. These scores reflect how each subwoofer performs in the real world, not just how it looks on paper. The ones that made this guide are the highest-rated picks based on overall performance, reliability, and market sentiment. For more information about our methods, see How Gearank Works.
About the Author and Contributors
Here are the key people and sources involved in this guide’s production – click on linked names for information about their music industry backgrounds.
Lead Author & Researcher
In my experience of doing live sound, the best venues are the ones with a good subwoofer that pairs well with both the mains and the venue. PA sub selection is dependent on the purpose: Is it for a rental, rehearsal, or venue? How large is the space? These things are what influence how I calibrate venue sound. It’s always better to err on the side of too much power than too little, but the tradeoff there is size and portability. The selections in this guide cover a wide range of use cases so I recommend getting acquainted with your intended purpose while reading through the guide.
Contributors
Jerry Borillo, Jerome Arcon, & Alden Acosta: Product research.
Alexander Briones: Supplemental writing and Editing.
Jason Horton: Supplemental writing, Editing and Illustrating.
Media / Image Credit
Main/Top Image: By Gearank.com using photographs of the QSC KS118 and Electro-Voice EKX-18SP.
All videos have been embedded in accordance with YouTube’s Terms of Service.
The individual product images were sourced from websites, promotional materials, or supporting documentation provided by their respective manufacturers.
More Best PA Subwoofer – Top Powered Subs for Live Sound 2025 Related Posts
Comments:
53 responses
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Publication of 2022.10 Edition resulted in the following subs coming off our recommended list due to having been out-ranked by our current recommendations:
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I smell bullshit here, dj’s are praising turbosound and rfc’s instead. Mackie srt line is worse then thump? WTF. Please explain.
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We recommend only the subs with the highest ratings – you can learn how the ratings are calculated in the article How Gearank Works.
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Publication of our November 2021 Edition resulted in the following subs coming off the recommended list above:
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As a newbie to live sound mixing, a basic question: For a 4 piece rock band (guitar, bass, keys, drums, vocal), what is the best way to add a powered sub to an existing 1600 Watt board that does not have a separate ‘sub out’ jack? I’m considering, as an example, EV’s ‘EXK-18SP’, but want to make sure I can use it to filter out low freqs only, and have my main board handle only mids and highs. Thanks, in advance!
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Hi Bob,
If your powered mixer has a free monitor out, you can rout it to an eq (to remove frequencies higher than 100hz) to a powered subwoofer and use the monitor level on specific channels to feed it to the sub. It’s a hack but it will do until you get a better powered mixer.
Check out the best Powered Mixers and Subwoofers here:
Powered Mixing Consoles
PA Subwoofer
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The October 2020 update resulted in the following subs coming off the recommended list above, but you can still see our analysis of them:
Powered
Passive
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I’m wondering how the Bose B1 made it in at an exclusion of others when it barely exceeds the output of home theatre in a box subwoofers.
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It’s because more than 50 people who have used it rated it higher than most of the other options available. You can read more about how we produce our ratings at How Gearank Works.
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As a result of our November 2019 update the following subs came off our recommended list above but you can still see our analysis of them:
Powered
Passive
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The thing is, you need a sub to thump. In my humble opinion, there is no substitute for a pair of JBL STX 828’s paired with two Lab Gruppen fp6400’s in bridge mode — you can get the fp6400’s online for about 1K each. This will get you the punch and thump. Combine that with a dbx driverack 260 (available *cheap* online) or a dbx driverack Venu360 and you will not be disappointed.
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Agreed. I’ve ventured into the active sub box idea every time with disappointment. No headroom. Nothing compares to a pair of dual 18 boxes powered by 2 separate amps running bridged mono. Such a drag to load in and out, but worth it.
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I wish to respectfully disagree with removal of the QSC KW181 review. It is certainly better than some of the other powered sub woofers that are listed in this review. True, that it is more expensive than some of the other competitors on this list but price and production age shouldn’t appear to be the main dominating factor for inclusion/exclusion from your list of high quality devices.
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I personally have a high opinion of the QSC brand, but the decision to remove the QSC KW181 from the recommended list was based purely on ratings and nothing else. It remains eligible for inclusion in this guide and could come back if its ratings are high enough when we do the next major update of the subwoofer category.
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Due to a lack of availability the following sub woofer has been removed from the recommended list above: Yamaha DXS12
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whats your thoughts on sound quality difference between turbo sounds tcs-b218 vs the tfs900b subwoofer, one is bandpass other is horn loaded, want to use for playback music and home theater.
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We haven’t rated either of those Turbosound subs, not because there’s anything wrong with them, but because they’re high-end systems that aren’t in wide use and consequently there aren’t sufficient rating sources available for us to examine.
Note that in order to avoid personal bias in the ratings we provide, we don’t directly test the gear ourselves, instead we base our ratings on detailed analysis of the tests conducted by others – you can read more about our methods in How Gearank Works.
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I’m curious if you have had a chance to review ev’s new line of the elx 200 series. I recently purchased the EV ELX200-18sp subwoofer. And I must say I like it better than my EKX. Anyways just curious on your thoughts opinions.
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When we published our latest update to this guide back in January, there were insufficient sources available for us to provide ratings on the ELX200 series.
I’ve checked again today, and although that’s still the case for the passive options in the range, we now have ratings for the powered options which you can see in the Music Gear Database.
The early reports are promising and I wouldn’t be surprised to see the ELX200-12SP or ELX200-18SP make it into our recommended list when we next revise this category in detail.
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As a result of our January 2018 review of the PA Subwoofer market, the following subwoofers were removed from our recommended list:
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Next review, please include a few models from Seismic Audio. I have several 18″ PA subs, including JBL, Yamaha, & CV and for the dollars spent, the SA subs are really good. They are punchy, accurate, and hold up very well to the constant pounding and abuse of three hour EDM-House set lists.
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RCF didn’t make the short list when we originally published this guide – you can see most of the subs that were on that list here.
Based on RCF’s current ratings it’s quite likely they will be on the short-list when we next update this guide, and if they rate highly enough they’ll be included in our recommendations.
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Hello whats about Samson Auro 1200? Im looking for a small sub, i own db technologies 15 and 18 ones but no stock for 12
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We haven’t rated the Samson Auro D1200 yet but we might if it has high enough ratings when we next update this guide.
An alternative would be the Yamaha DXS12, although it does cost more than the Samson Auro D1200.
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I came across this from google search, and have to say that I am pretty unimpressed by this comparison. Please include 1 watt/1 meter halfspace readings in your ratings, as max spl means nothing if you do not know how much power you are going to need to get there, and fix your max spl ratings. The industry has standardized on half space, 1 watt/1 meter, calculated at the speakers advertised ohms (4 or 8), to make comparisons possible.
The Peavey PV118 you have listed as Max SPL: 118 dB, is 95db 1w/1m, rated 200 watts continuous (200 watts 2.83vrms/8ohms)/400 program/800 peak.
The Electro-Voice ELX118 you have listed as Max SPL: 134 dB, is rated 96db 1w/1m, rated 400 watts continuous (2.83vrms/8ohms)/800 program/1600 peak.
In practical circumstances, there is only a 4db difference between the two (1dB due to sensitivity, 3dB due to double power). You have a difference of 16dB listed though! Care to explain how you came up with those numbers?
Sources:
https://peavey.com/products/index.cfm/item/665/116087
https://products.electrovoice.com/na/en//elx118/-
Hi Jeremy,
Thank you very much for pointing that out.
The Max SPL ratings came from the manufacturers’ spec/data sheets and they are correct (I re-checked them today), however I agree with you that the sensitivity ratings should also have been included – leaving them out was entirely my mistake.
I’ve now added the sensitivity ratings to the passive subwoofers above.
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Thank you for the comment, I’m pleasantly surprised by the response. I guess I never pay attention to Max SPL ratings because how a speaker performs is calculated off sensitivity and power. IMHO this is an example of the manufacturers being misleading. I typed into an SPL calculator, and I can see how they are coming up with these numbers.
96dB 1w/1m sensitivity, with 1600 watts, corner loaded, gives 134db. (what the Electro-Voice ELX118 is rated for)
95db 1w/1m sensitivity, 200 watts, half-spaced, gives 118dB. (What the Peavey PV118 is rated for, this is the standard way of rating)
What these guys are doing would have been considered cheating a few years ago, by publishing corner loaded (1/8th space) at peak power rating. I looked up the active QSC KW181, and the Yamaha DSR118W, and there was no sensitivity listed for their cabs, but their numbers seem only possible if they are doing this as well. This will cause problems comparing passive vs active speakers. See Yamaha’s passive SW118V, published in half space: here at Yamaha Pro Audio.
If you calculate the Peavey PV118’s “Max SPL” as EV did for their ELX118, by corner loading them instead of half space loading (+6db), and base it off peak power instead of continuous (another +6db), you get a “Max SPL” of 130dB. That said, Peavey is rating correctly, the others are not.
Thanks for adding the sensitivity. Now at least I know what’s going on. Unfortunately 1w/1m half-space, is much more important to know than Max SPL, which is not a standard to my knowledge.
A note on Behringer: I bought a 200w 1u quad amp from them, because it was 1u and I was curious to try one of their products. I ran a sine wave through it and wasn’t able to get more than 30 watts through it, measured via multimeter. They flat out lie on their specifications. I will never buy another product from them. I would suggest only include products from them you’ve tested.
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As I’m sure you’re aware, but others may not be, there are several different ways to measure power and several ways to calculate ratings based on those measurements.
Looking at the numbers you stated for the 1u amp my guess is that they used some kind of very generous peak rating instead of a root mean square as you appear to have done.
Some manufacturers seem to be deliberately vague about power ratings in order to advertise the highest headline number they can come up with – we’ve begun asking manufacturers about their rating methods so we can offer consistent information across all our guides as we update old ones and publish new ones – some manufactures are proving to be more responsive than others but hopefully we’ll get there.
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To the one making a fool of himself- I feel as tho you are trying to find an error that can’t be backed up, therefore causing the Gearank team to do a retraction. As far as I’m concerned, the testing they did was awesome. I’m a 20+ year sound engineer and I will, and would have, never been so blatantly crass over 16bB. Seriously? 16 dB? You then told them “Care to explain how you came up with that?” Really? You’re a blog bum, aren’t you? Just cruising thru sound blogs looking to prove someone wrong or just a little more off the shoulder than you’re happy with. Gearank guys do great work. I have never added any of my 2 cents to a blog…ever! Until now! It’s actually true, the saying ‘you learn more with your mouth shut and your ears open’. In this case, well, you figure it out. You seem to be mr smarty pants. You’re also the guy that makes all us other sound guys look as tho we don’t know what we’re talking about. You should try leaving your calculator in your pocket protector, put your suspenders back on, take off your slippers – shower, of coarse – and put the cheese puffs back in the cupboard…you’ve had plenty! Not in that order, of course. Good thing I said something, wouldn’t want you to belittle me on well known and very informative blog. I earn business by keeping up with these guys. 16dB has never been an issue when looking at speakers. If I found a small oops, I’d email the blogger and discuss it that way. Ugh. I’m sick of you ready. Go hide under you moms bed, where you just came out from to hassle this blog. Go, now. Your milk and cookies and new coloring book is ready. Nothing is wrong with the last 3, I love them. But hiding under you mothers bed as a grown adult is. Goodnight.
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Wow, I didn’t see this till now. First off, Congratulations on your long career as a sound engineer, I’ve only been doing it about eight and a half years.
I never run powered speakers, because as you know, you have to run twice the amount of cables for them. They’ve become somewhat of a fad with DJ’s and garage bands lately, so I’ll blame the market as well as the many budget brands for why they are not using the prior industry standard (1w/1m RMS rating). As to whither a 16dB difference matters or not, it is a power factor of about 40x. In fact, it is the difference between typical home theatre set (80db), and typical Prosound equipment (96db). So I really don’t understand how someone could not consider 16db a big deal.
I am pleased at the response from GearRank. There is no end to the number review sites which are less than reputable, and this comparison was my first time here. I don’t believe after my interaction with them that they are one of those review spam sites. They acknowledged the differences and explained where they got the ratings.
I do believe that when comparing things, you have to compare them accurately. If it were my article, I might put a note about the differences between the powered and unpowered speaker ratings. However anyone who is curious enough to understand why the disparity exists will be able to read this exchange and learn what I did.
Best wishes sincerely,
–Jem -
Hey dude, that was obviously a troll or someone who doesn’t know what he is talking about.
Thanks for pointing out the obvious lack of knowledge errors.
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They do sound good, but for the money their are way better subs! A single 18″ sub is over $3500! Could get two RCF 8003 for that price…and I have demoed both!! Not much difference in sound, but twice the price. Just my opinion!
Hello, I liked your review of the JBL PRX718XLF subs and was looking to purchase a pair. You said the street value was $799 each but I can not find any near that price. Any suggestions? Most of the ones I am seeing are $1200 to $1400 each. Thank you
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Hi Erik – I checked and found that all the major retailers have sold out and it’s no longer available for $799. The lowest price I found was $1150 at Amazon – that price may not last long. Thanks for letting us know about the problem – I’ve removed the outdated JBL PRX718XLF information from the guide above. Anyone who’s interested in our meta-review can still find it at JBL PRX718XLF 1500W 18″ Powered Subwoofer.
Any way you could do a powered sub comparison based on wattage? I am specifically trying to compare the Turbosound IQ18b, the ETX-18SP and the QSC KW181.
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Bespoke comparisons aren’t a viable option due to the amount of time they require to do at our usual high standards, however we do take all comments into consideration each time we update one of our guides.
We also make nearly each piece of gear we’ve analyzed available in our music gear database and you can see the Gearank scores of each item you mentioned by clicking here.
The JBL PRX718xlf are NOT designed to be mounted on a pole. They have a pole mount for a top speaker to be mounted above them. Don’t want some knucklehead trying to put one of these up on his On-stage speaker stand.
Has anyone tested the Peavey Dark Matter 115 or 118 Subs?
What about the Peavey PVXP 15 inch Sub?
I see no Yorkville speakers mentioned here. Were they not considered for comparison, or found to be under ranked?
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We didn’t keep any specific notes on Yorkville Subwoofers when we did the research for this guide – all I can tell you is they didn’t make it past the first level of screening which means that at the time it was considered unlikely that they would rate high enough to be included.
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Hi – I know I’m late to the topic.
Hope I get a response – I’m looking to upgrade my sound, have been considering the below listed bass bins.
Alto Truesonic TS218S
Electro-Voice ELX118P
They almost have similar specs but the max spl ratings and low end on the EV is slightly better but almost twice the price of the Alto.
I’m not able to listen to them as no one store has both in stock. So I can’t really rate them on sound quality.
If possible – can you help me out?
Thanks.
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Hi Burton – you’re not late, in fact you’re kind of early because the Alto Professional Truesonic TS218S only became available in stores in the last few months and there are only a limited number of rating sources available for it so far – but I’ve generated some data for you:
I’ve added the TS218S to our public database so you can compare it’s Gearank score with the ELX118P.
Gearank scores change as new data becomes available and based on some of the reviews I read I wouldn’t be surprised if the TS218S earns a higher score over time, but it has a long way to go before its ratings would be high enough for us to include in one of our music gear guides.
BTW – The ELX118P has a street price that’s only slightly higher than the TS218S and as I type this (and this may change at any time) there is currently a lower price for the ELX118P on Amazon than for the TS218S on Amazon.
I hope this helps.
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Thanks a Ton for your response – I’m based in South Africa. Over here the Alto’s are selling around 550 dollars & the EV sells around 1000 dollars. 🙁
So I’m leaning more towards the Alto + I have a pair of Alto 15’s – But I’m certainly considering moving to EV in the very near future.
Thanks for an awesome site – Happy new year all the way from S.A 🙂
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I was looking at the I/O for the DXS12, but it says input and “thru”. Is thru truly an output or like a modified input? Because on your stats it says Input Connectors: 2 x XLR
Output Connectors: 2 x XLR
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There are 2 Ins and 2 Thrus on the Yamaha DXS12.
The outs are called Thru because the signal is running in parallel to the input rather than in series.
Hello what should be the ratio of speakers to the one amplifier given that the amp can drive out 5000 watts. So how many speakers can it drive to its maximum without damaging it or vice versa? Let me say if i had only EV bass speakers.
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Unless you have a very expensive professional amplifier, it’s not going to be able to output 5kW. If you have an amp that can really output 5kW then you’re not going to be asking that question. You’d need a 32 amp mains supply for that!
You’re also asking the wrong question. Let us assume you have an amp rated at 500W continuous. This 500W is the maximum it can output under ideal conditions. These ideal conditions are met when the impedance (measured in ohms) of the amplifier is equal to the impedance of the speakers being driven. For example, if you have an amplifier with an impedance of 4 ohms per channel, then it would be at its most efficient when driving one 4 ohm speaker per channel, or two 8 ohm speakers per channel etc. Connecting speakers with lower impedance than the amp will risk damaging your amp – it effectively creates a short-circuit.
With your amplifier you should have a spec sheet, and this will tell you what the continuous power output is. If you have speakers which are impedance-matched to your amplifier, make sure that the continuous power rating of the speakers is greater than or equal to the continuous power output of the amplifier, otherwise you risk burning your speakers out.
So if your amp is 2-channels, 4 ohms per channel, 500W continuous, you need a pair of subs with an impedance of 4 ohms and continuous power output of 250W or greater.
Make sense?
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I have to correct you on your comment. A 5kW amplifier does not draw 32A. Amplifiers first store energy in capacitor banks, then release that energy (through a DC power supply) through transistors to the speaker. Look up “average power draw” on your amplifier’s specs. Then look up “inrush current.”. The inrush is the most likely reason a breaker would trip, especially if turning on multiple amps at the same time.
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Curious how the TurboSound IQ15B and IQ18B stack up compared to the others. Can they be included?
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When we were doing the research for this guide it was clear that none of the Turbosound iQ range were rated highly enough to be included in this guide so they didn’t make it past the initial screening process.
There have been more ratings published over the last couple months so I re-checked and the situation hasn’t changed much except that the Turbosound iQ18B now has a higher Gearank score then it did back then, but still not high enough to be included in this guide, although I did add it to our public music gear database today.
You can see all the Turbosound products in the database here.
I should point out that the purpose of Gearank.com is not to list every piece of music gear out there, instead we focus on highly rated gear that have a realistic potential to be included in our Music Gear Guides.
PA System Guides
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Author & Contributors
Raphael Pulgar
I've been an audio engineer for 20 years specializing in rock and metal recordings. I also play guitar and produce original music for my band and other content creators.
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